It was pouring outside when Lucia and Matt exchanged rings. I know because I was standing outside to muffle my toddler's tantrum. The wedding was a warm and personal event and we had so much of fun hanging out with Lucia & Matt's family.
Lucia was our son's babysitter/nanny for 6 months and Isaac was so attached to her. In New York, he ran down the hall every morning to greet her. He was elated to see Lucia again after all these weeks. He has a problem with Matt - the other man in her life now, but they seem to be making progress.
I love this video of the reception - all the musicians in the band are Lucia's cousins. Isaac was a bit confounded at first, but rocked the dance floor later in the evening.
Pictures from the wedding on our FB album.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
Trebic, Chech Republic - Day 50: The kindness of strangers
Last night, we arrived at Trebic, a small town in the south of the Chech Republic. We changed 4 trains to get from Budapest and by the time the 2 wagon suburban train pulled into town, it was 11pm and all of us were hungry, tired and in need of a shower.
We are in Trebic for Lucia's wedding - our babysitter and friend who we know from New York. Lucia had booked us a room at Pension Eliska - a family run guesthouse. At the deserted station (not counting the homeless person), we asked the station attendant for directions. Perhaps because she felt sorry for us (or our son), she proceeded to lock up the station and escorted us to the pension. On getting there, we found the main door locked and the lights turned off. I began to panic, considering the bleak prospect of finding alternative lodging at midnight.
The station attendant persisted with the door bell and used her cell phone to dial the number listed on the signage. And all this while it was cold, dark and drizzling!
10 minutes later, a tenant in the building peered out of a window. A conversation ensued between the station attendant and the man, and a few phone calls later we were let in by a receptionist who must have been knocking back a few beers at the local pub.
This morning, it all felt so surreal. T and I are amazed at the kindness of strangers. If it weren't for the station attendant and the man in the window, we would have had little choice but to sleep at the station last night.
We are in Trebic for Lucia's wedding - our babysitter and friend who we know from New York. Lucia had booked us a room at Pension Eliska - a family run guesthouse. At the deserted station (not counting the homeless person), we asked the station attendant for directions. Perhaps because she felt sorry for us (or our son), she proceeded to lock up the station and escorted us to the pension. On getting there, we found the main door locked and the lights turned off. I began to panic, considering the bleak prospect of finding alternative lodging at midnight.
The station attendant persisted with the door bell and used her cell phone to dial the number listed on the signage. And all this while it was cold, dark and drizzling!
10 minutes later, a tenant in the building peered out of a window. A conversation ensued between the station attendant and the man, and a few phone calls later we were let in by a receptionist who must have been knocking back a few beers at the local pub.
This morning, it all felt so surreal. T and I are amazed at the kindness of strangers. If it weren't for the station attendant and the man in the window, we would have had little choice but to sleep at the station last night.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Bratislava, Slovakia - Day 50 : Europe's youngest capital
Bratislava may be Europe's youngest capital but it has a long and myriad history, having served as the capital of the Habsburg Monarchy. The old town is packed with Baroque churches and medieval towers - but we didn't get to see it all because of the torrential downpour on the ONE day that we had in Bratislava!
When we walked through the old town, it was getting a major face-lift. All the buildings are being repainted in pastels (!) and there is a definite push to make the city more attractive to visitors (large and swanky tourist information centers). Perhaps Bratislava is trying to attract at least a sliver of the tourists that overrun Prague every day and rightfully so. It has an interesting mixture of Soviet architecture and 16th century buildings, and is just 60 kms from Vienna. If you are ever in the vicinity, it's definitely worth a visit.
We wanted to make it to the Novy Most - a futuristic UFO bridge over the Danube built by the Soviets but never did because of the weather. So we did what anyone does when it rains - found a warm place to sit down and dig into food. T got this delicious plate of 'Makovegulky' - warm gooey poppy seed dumplings.
When we walked through the old town, it was getting a major face-lift. All the buildings are being repainted in pastels (!) and there is a definite push to make the city more attractive to visitors (large and swanky tourist information centers). Perhaps Bratislava is trying to attract at least a sliver of the tourists that overrun Prague every day and rightfully so. It has an interesting mixture of Soviet architecture and 16th century buildings, and is just 60 kms from Vienna. If you are ever in the vicinity, it's definitely worth a visit.
We wanted to make it to the Novy Most - a futuristic UFO bridge over the Danube built by the Soviets but never did because of the weather. So we did what anyone does when it rains - found a warm place to sit down and dig into food. T got this delicious plate of 'Makovegulky' - warm gooey poppy seed dumplings.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Budapest, Hungary - Day 49 : Inviting Waters
The Buda castle, the Parliment building and the beautiful bridges over the Danube light up like a Christmas tree in the evenings, making it perhaps the most romantic city I have visited after Paris. Thus far (and I type this nearly 2 weeks after I have left Budapest) it is the one city I would love to live and work in some day.And if the waters of the Danube aren't enough, Budapest's 100 thermal springs (more than any other world capital) are reason enough to bring me back. We spent an evening at the Gellert Spa - soaking in the healing thermal baths and cooling pools surrounded by a melange of mosaic tiles, Roman columns and domed glass roofs that streams light in like the fingers of God. And all of this for a mere 3100 Forint (15 $)!!
Pictures of beautiful Budapest (and Gellert Spa) on my FB album.
*Travel Tips for Parents*:
The Gellert Spa is perfect for a toddler. There are 3 children's pools but children are welcome in other pools as well. We took turns splashing with our son at an outdoor heated pool (one of the more lukewarm ones) while we explored the sex-segregated saunas, massages and baths. They also have a convenient family changing room that can be rented as part of the entrance fee.
We stayed at Town Hall Apartments - a very child friendly apartment rental company which provided a baby cot at no extra charge. There is a DM pharmacy (for diapers & wipes) and a large playground right outside the building.
Image Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Budapest_from_Gellert_Hill_MC.jpg
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Budapest, Hungary - Day 47: Biking
The past 2 days we rented bikes and rode around Budapest, the perfect way to cover such a sprawling city and all the beautiful bridges over the Danube. Isaac loved the wind in his face, was in peels of laughter and kept saying, "More, More, More". Budapest is especially beautiful at dusk - when the rays of the setting sun lights up Pest.
Budapest has bike lanes, but when there isn't one, you are 'permitted' to ride on the sidewalks or on the road - both are precarious and unsafe. Still, Budapest is extremely bike friendly and cars always give bikers the right of way. It isn't Amsterdam or Paris, but it's getting there. After riding along the Danube on the Buda side, we rode to Margaret Island - a green oasis splat in the middle of the river. The idea of a pedestrain only recreational island is just so refreshing - If I lived here, I would jog on this island everyday.
The bike shop - Budapest Bike had this cute 'Critical Mass' poster. Critical Mass is a movement promoting cycling as a convenient and clean means of urban transportation. Apparently Budapest has one of the largest Critical Mass Bike rides in the world - last year's attracted nearly 80000 riders. In contrast, Critical Mass in NYC is fraught with controversy, with frequent confrontations between the NYPD and the riders.
A cool video on the last Critical Mass event in Budapest.
Budapest has bike lanes, but when there isn't one, you are 'permitted' to ride on the sidewalks or on the road - both are precarious and unsafe. Still, Budapest is extremely bike friendly and cars always give bikers the right of way. It isn't Amsterdam or Paris, but it's getting there. After riding along the Danube on the Buda side, we rode to Margaret Island - a green oasis splat in the middle of the river. The idea of a pedestrain only recreational island is just so refreshing - If I lived here, I would jog on this island everyday.
The bike shop - Budapest Bike had this cute 'Critical Mass' poster. Critical Mass is a movement promoting cycling as a convenient and clean means of urban transportation. Apparently Budapest has one of the largest Critical Mass Bike rides in the world - last year's attracted nearly 80000 riders. In contrast, Critical Mass in NYC is fraught with controversy, with frequent confrontations between the NYPD and the riders.A cool video on the last Critical Mass event in Budapest.
Bringázás a Föld Napján - Biking on Earth Day - www.spejz.hu from Tapsi Hapsi on Vimeo.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Budapest, Hungary - Day 46 : Apartments vs. Hotels
We are in Budapest for 5 days and we have checked into a fabulous 1 BR apartment in the heart of the city. I was feeling fatigued, so it was a perfect excuse to skip any sightseeing and just sit back with a cup of coffee and relax while Isaac ran around the apartment and T stepped out for some informational meetings.
Which brings me to the case for renting apartments when traveling. Before Issac, T and I always scoped out boutique bed'n'breakfasts which gave us the best flavor of the country that we were visiting. But when traveling with a toddler, laundry piles up fast and washing milk bottles in a bathroom sink gets tiring. Besides even $100/night hotel rooms are cramped and tight.
We first rented a apartment in Kyiv, Ukraine purely by chance because none of the other accommodations worked out. After that it has been'apartment fever' all the way. It has alleviated all my travel issues thus far - mainly washing clothes in a bathroom sink and constantly eating overpriced restaurant food.
I have stayed in 4 apartments thus far, and all of them came with well equipped kitchens and all (with the exception of 1) have had washing machines. And they are *SO* much more affordable than 2/3 star hotels, almost always less than $85-$90 a night. We have found apartments for just 1 or 2 nights, at short notice and there are tons of online reservation websites. The apartments are often located in the suburbs but for about $10 more, you could find one pretty close to the city center.
We have thoroughly enjoyed the novelty of buying local produce and wine, and cooking meals in the apartment. And the biggest advantage - it is almost always located in a historic district or building, making the travel experience so much more authentic than a cookie cutter hotel room. And yes, our toddler gets to run around and wear himself out.
I feel I have stumbled on a priceless piece of travel wisdom that I wish someone had pointed out to me earlier. While traveling with a toddler or even otherwise, renting an apartment is definitely far more value for money.
Which brings me to the case for renting apartments when traveling. Before Issac, T and I always scoped out boutique bed'n'breakfasts which gave us the best flavor of the country that we were visiting. But when traveling with a toddler, laundry piles up fast and washing milk bottles in a bathroom sink gets tiring. Besides even $100/night hotel rooms are cramped and tight.
We first rented a apartment in Kyiv, Ukraine purely by chance because none of the other accommodations worked out. After that it has been'apartment fever' all the way. It has alleviated all my travel issues thus far - mainly washing clothes in a bathroom sink and constantly eating overpriced restaurant food.
I have stayed in 4 apartments thus far, and all of them came with well equipped kitchens and all (with the exception of 1) have had washing machines. And they are *SO* much more affordable than 2/3 star hotels, almost always less than $85-$90 a night. We have found apartments for just 1 or 2 nights, at short notice and there are tons of online reservation websites. The apartments are often located in the suburbs but for about $10 more, you could find one pretty close to the city center.
We have thoroughly enjoyed the novelty of buying local produce and wine, and cooking meals in the apartment. And the biggest advantage - it is almost always located in a historic district or building, making the travel experience so much more authentic than a cookie cutter hotel room. And yes, our toddler gets to run around and wear himself out.
I feel I have stumbled on a priceless piece of travel wisdom that I wish someone had pointed out to me earlier. While traveling with a toddler or even otherwise, renting an apartment is definitely far more value for money.
Friday, May 22, 2009
L'viv, Ukraine - Day 43 : Someone's happy!
This video was taken at the rental apartment in L'viv, Ukraine. Needless to say, Isaac has been a happy camper all through this trip and has been adjusting better than we imagined.
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